The West Commences: Peking Duck

Some of Jay’s Korean friends had told him that the food in Beijing was bad, but we ate well. On Wednesday after a shopping trip that was an unqualified failure, we had one of the best meals I’ve eaten in my life. I didn’t want to leave Beijing without eating Peking

Duck, so before even leaving Vernon, I had chosen 2 restaurants that were recommended in Lonely Planet Beijing. One of them was closer to our hostel than the other, so I asked the really helpful people at the front desk of the Peking Yard about taking a taxi there. The young man told me and then mentioned that there was a very good restaurant within walking distance. He said his boss always took visiting family and friends there for the duck. As Jay and I were on the shanks’ mare tour, this seemed just the thing. We invited a German girl we had met on the first hike to the Great Wall to join us. Hua’s Restaurant turned out to be on the brightly lit, big avenue that Jay and I had walked along on our first night in Beijing. Jay spotted the sign and a waiter who was stationed by the door quickly sensed our interest and approached us. Like our hostel, the entrance on the street was not large, but the restaurant was a maze of rooms, kitchens and yards that extended back a long way. We followed him to a beautiful open area with trees, about 4 tables and rooms around the sides. The moon was full above the branches and the atmosphere perfect for the Moon Festival. Our waiter, Walter, was helpful and friendly. The succulent duck was carved by a man in a white cook’s hat who stood just behind us, and the pieces cunningly arranged under the finely sliced, crispy skin before it was placed on the table. I had read in the guide about a few restaurants that served Peking Duck ‘lite’ to accommodate those who like that sort of thing, but I don’t. I had also read somewhere that those who like Peking Duck, like the skin the most, and after eating it, I now know why. Walter showed us how to take a paper-thin pancake, open it on your hand, spread one of 3 sauces on it, add meat, skin and assorted vegetables and fruits and finally fold it into a morsel that can be eaten in 2 bites. Delicious! Along with it we had rice, snow pea greens and a wonderful eggplant and pork dish. I thought of the dinners Jim and I used to have with Al and Caroline and Mela and Don. It was a very good evening.

The following day, Thursday, was the real day of the Moon Festival. I joined many other people who were staying at the hostel in the making of dumplings. We had 2 big bowls of ground pork mixed with spices and chopped green onions and piles of round wrappers. Our chief instructor was one of the staff, who also cleans rooms and does many other tasks there, but her real skill is dumpling making. None of us even approached her skill. In under a minute, she could sculpt a dumpling that looked like a perfect French braid. When they were cooked and finally presented with the other dishes on the buffet table, it was a laugh to see the variety of failures and her perfect works scattered among them. Jay and I went for a walk in the neighborhood and under the full moon after dinner. I went early to bed, and he went out with others from the hostel.

Now I have written about the highlights of the holiday. It was everything I had hoped it would be. Jay and I traveled well together, and I was happy to spend so much time with him. We haven’t lived together in years, let alone share a room in a hostel.

On Saturday morning we ate a good breakfast in the hostel and went for a final walk around the hutong.

The carving of the duck

About to begin eating the duck

For dessert we were given sliced melons and oranges and these little pastry birds in boxes

The best looking door on our street

A car parked on our street. We wondered why some cars had this board and brick tire-covering system. I finally asked the young man at the desk in the hostel. He asked me to guess, and when I was wrong twice, told me it was to keep dogs from peeing on the tires.

If you click on this picture it will get bigger and you will see that the gold letters read, Kindergarten of Ministry of Finance. No wonder China is taking over the world economy; they begin their training early.